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The Düsseldorf-born, German designer, age 41, has already worked for the brand twice since it was established in 1952 as a source for opulent ready-to-wear, when Parisian fashion was still dominated by haute couture businesses. Aghion pioneered a more emancipated, simpler way of clothing than contemporaries like Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior, whose garments were severely structured—and frequently just heavy—during those post-war years, when Chloé's free-spirited look was developed.
After working at Alberta Ferretti and Strenesse in Milan, Kamali returned to Chloé to work as a design director under Clare Waight Keller from 2013 to 2016. She began her career at Chloé, where she was a member of Phoebe Philo's team, before earning her Masters at Central Saint Martins under Louise Wilson. As Anthony Vaccarello took on the position of creative director at the Kering-owned business that same year, she joined Saint Laurent and collaborated closely with him as the design director of women's ready-to-wear.
In a statement, Kamali said, “My heart has always been Chloé’s. It has been since I stepped through its doors more than 20 years ago. Returning feels natural and very personal.”
When it was revealed last week that Seán McGirr will take Sarah Burton's position at Alexander McQueen, another white male joining the ranks of creative directors at high-end fashion brands in Paris and Milan, there was outrage online. This led to her appointment. Chloé has a lengthy history of female leads, from Stella McCartney and Philo to Hannah MacGibbon and Waight Keller to Natacha Ramsay-Levi prior to Hearst. Karl Lagerfeld held the position of creative director at Chloé for a long time. Numerous of their creations will be on display in the Jewish Museum in New York's "Mood of the Moment: Gaby Aghion and the House of Chloé" exhibition, which opens this week.
Kamali’s first collection for the brand, for pre-fall 2024, will be shown in Paris in January, followed by her runway debut in February.
